September 19, 2008: SUZHOU...

Today we went to Suzhou, a city around 35 miles northwest of Shanghai in Jiangsu province, one of China's richest. We went to the center of Suzhou, and visited a number of the gardens in the old part of the city surrounded by a moat and remnants of the old city wall. We first went to the Humble Administrator's Garden and then explored some of the older streets, and had lunch of dumplings with Ariel and Matt. We then went to the East Gardens and saw a leapard, lion, and panda in the city's zoo. After the zoo, we split up into two groups with one group taking the bus back while myself and about half the group decided to try to take the train back. We walked to the train-station and stopped at the Beisi Tower, a Buddhist temple with an eight storey pagoda tower that dates from the Song Dynasty. From the top we had a great view of Suzhou, and had a bird's eye view of a Buddhist ceremony being performed in one of the temples in the complex. After dinner in the old city, we took one of China's high speed trains back to Shanghai. While the morning bus ride had taken a little under three hours with traffic, the train got us back to Shanghai in about 40 minutes.


Matt and Edwin in the Beisi Tower

September 18, 2008 -- the Shanghai Art Scene

On Thursday we went to the Shanghai Museum, a four story world-class museum ten minutes walk from the hotel, located next to People's Square. The Museum is now free and hosts impressive exhibits of ancient Chinese bronzes, painting, furniture, sculpture. I particularly enjoyed the coin exhibits, as they feature some of the world's earliest coins and paper money, which was invented by the Chinese.
At noon we met up again in front of the Shanghai Museum of Art and got to see works by some of the most famous Chinese contemporary artists, including Yue Minjun 岳敏君 who had built a giant set of steel dinousaurs -- with human heads. The dinosaurs were made of the same steel used in cars and painted with the same kind of paint, a subtle message about the potential consequences of our fossil fuel based economy...
We went over to Tianzi Fang, an art district in central China, and after exploring some of the galleries (where paintings were selling for 20-30,000 yuan (about 2-5,000 US dollars) I had lunch at a New York style pizza place with Steven, Megan and Christian. In the evening we went back to the hotel where people took advantage of the swimming pool and gym. In the evening a large group of us (Ila, Sam, Braeden, Madelyn, Megan, Steven, Stan, Christian and myself) went over to a Xinjiang Muslim style restaurant, where we had Naan bread, lamb kebabs, lamb and noodles --- a feast for about $6. A number of the students felt a little bad for the waitresses who were made to fetch cold beers by the table behind us (and made to go back out again when the beer they had selected wasn't correct).

Wednesday, September 17, 2008 -- waking up in Shanghai

We arrived into the Shanghai train station at 6:00 am -- early on we ran into a small problem: Sylvan had left a book and Zhoucun sesame cakes on the train and after no more than 2 minutes on the platform, remembered them and went back to look for them -- they were already gone. I went back to look through his room and couldn't find the cakes but under the bed found Christian's suitcase -- an art piece he has been working on, inspired by a Chinese artist who builds transportable cities in suitcases.

Director Ding from our hotel was at the station to meet us with a van, and we were at the hotel and checked in a little over an hour after arriving at the station. In the morning, I did a little exploring and prepared maps of the surroundings to hand out to people, and then walked down to the Yu Yuan Gardens and Bund, crossing the Huangpu river on a ferry and coming back, in order to prepare for our afternoon and evening excursions. At 2 pm we met in the hotel lobby to walk over to the beautiful Yu Yuan gardens where after taking a few group photos, we decided to let everyone explore on their own. In the evening we met up for dinner and then took a bus to the new section of the city, Pudong, where we went up Jin Mao tower, one of the world's ten tallest buildings, and designed by an American architectural firm. We took a ferry back across the river and had a view of the elegant Bund, a strip of colonial era banks and hotels built by European firms in the early 20th century. We walked along the expansive, raised marble street in front of the Bund; the many Chinese flags atop each of the colonial buildings were brighly lit and fluttered crisply in the light wind.

September 16, 2008 -- Exhibition Day!

It's hard to believe how quickly time has passes -- it is now exhibition day! Installation took most of the morning, and we had a quick lunch, some of the professors didn't even have lunch as they worked straight through to the opening ceremony at 2:30. At 2:00 we went over to visit President Pan in his spacious office, where we gave each of us gold plated medal coins, featuring the bust of Confucius, designed by one of SUAD's professors. At the ceremony, I translated the short speeches by Ying and Christian (who was the US student representative) into Chinese, and then got to enjoy all of the fantastic art pieces. Matt and Li Guang's video attracted the most attention, and I was flattered that they included a short cameo of me pretending to be a rock star at the end of their video. In their piece, Li played the role of a Kong Fu master, battling out a game of Chinese chess with a Western Cowboy, played by Matt. Images of the normal LI and Matt in t-shirts were interspliced with images of Li imagining an epic battle between East and West. In the end, neither Matt nor Li wins the game, and they walk off into the sunset as friends. In the evening we went to another fantastic dinner, hosted by the SUAD's Vice President Li. I sat next to Wang Han Chen, and Professors Luo and Jiang, who kept repeating how wonderful the US students were this year. He also apologized for some of the problems they had had with printing out projects, which surprised me, given how rarely people directly appologize in Chinese culture in my experience.
In addition to toasts by Vice President Li and Ying, a number of the students proposed toasts to the Professors and Ying. Professors Jiang and Luo were very impressed with Stan and Sam's drinking ability, and Professor Wang, Wang Han Chen's father, poured Stan a full glass of Baijiu, white alcohol, and encouraged him to stay in China because he was such a good drinker. After dinner we drove directly to the train station, and Jackie, the head of the International Affairs Office, shepherded us through the station and onto the train. The sleeper cars he had helped us purchase were very comfortable, and I stayed up until about 11 talking with Steven, Ila and Christian about their experiences and the coming US election. It was a really full day, and one of the most satisfying so far.

September 15, 2008 -- Zhoucun & Progress Review

Today we had breakfast at 6:30 and went on a 90 minute bus ride to the city of Zhoucun, near Zibo, north of Jinan. We were accompanied by a Jinan government official as well as Jackie, who had arranged for our participation at the opening ceremony for the city of Zhoucun's fifth annual cultural festival. We saw performances by the Zhongguo Lamei, (China spicy sisters) as well as an introduction to the history of Zhoucun performed by two 10 year olds -- it was an amazing show, with fantastic drumming and a very powerful sound system. After the performances we went to see some of the old sections of the city and got to see how one of the city's most famous foods, Zhoucun Shaobing (sesame seed cakes) were made and had an enormous lunch, courtesy of the local city government. We drove back to the new campus and worked there from around 3 to 8:30 at night, finalizing the projects for Tuesday's installation and exhibition.

September 14, 2008 -- Baotu Springs, Qianfo Mt, KTV

Today we had an early breakfast and went to visit the springs for which Jinan is famous. We went to downtown Jinan, and had an hour to visit the "leaping leapard spring" --- the park also featured two Seals, a new addition from last year. The word for seal in Chinese is "hai bao" (sea leapard) and I think the common character in the name of the spring is why they chose to have two seals in the park. I got to see a memorial temple for Li Qingzhao a famous Song dynasty poet from Jinan, who also lived in Hangzhou (like me!). After the park, we met up with our Chinese partners at Thousand Buddha Mountain and hiked the mountain; I went with Matt, Madelyn and Brooke and their partners Li Guang and Zhang Wenqiu to visit a few temples and see a giant golden Buddha. A few people tested firing arrows at targets and went on the bumper cars. At lunch I went back with Zhang Wenqiu to check on Lexis, who had been feeling sick and then went with Zhang to the KTV place we had booked the night before. Everyone met for lunch, some going to KFC, others trying out Chinese style fast food. Karaoke was a lot of fun, and Lexis joined us and sang a number of songs -- it was a really great atmosphere. The Chinese students smuggled in food and drinks, and I sang "Yueliang daibiao wo de xin" with Zhang Wenqiu. In the evening we had dinner at the school cafeteria and ate "basi digua" candied sweet potatoes -- something I'll definitely miss when we get back to the States!

Saturday, September 13

Today we went to the new campus to work with our partners -- everybody felt a little under pressure because today was the last full day of work before progress review and the installation on Monday and Tuesday. People are finishing their projects at different speeds and some people left early today, while another group stayed on in the evening. I have been having lunch and dinner at the new campus with Wang Hanchen, son of one of SUAD's senior professors, Wang Chuandong, who hopes his son can go to the U of O as a junior and so wants me to help his son improve his English. At dinner I shared with him a language trick, telling him when he doesn't understand someone who speaks English to him, he can say, using an even tone of voice: "really?". This way he can give the appearance of understanding, and half the time, the person he's talking with may repeat what they just said, giving him an opportunity to really understand it.